The “Grand Seigneur” of Alpinism – Peter Habeler
Peter Habeler, who was born in Mayerhofen in the Ziller Valley in Tyrol, realised early on that mountaineering and climbing had reached an impasse. And so he made the Alpine style and climbing “by fair means” the highest goal on his expeditions. Today, Peter Habeler is considered an outstanding mountain climber in this style and he also represents it as a member of the jury for the Piolet d’Or awards – the Oscars of Alpinism.
In the world's mountains
Habeler was just 21 years of age when he earned a state certification as a mountain and ski tour guide and ski teacher. He went on to become the youngest director of this school in Austria, a position he held for many years. The Messner/Habeler rope team was created early on, in 1969. The two men first drew attention to themselves with the first ascent of the east face of the Yerupaja Grande (6617 meters) and the first climb up the Yerupaja Chico in the Andes. Meanwhile, in 1970, Habeler became the first European – together with Doug Scott – to conquer a big wall in the Yosemite Valley, California. They climbed the “Salathé” on the El Capitan in a very short time. It was the world’s most difficult route back then.
Success with a new style
Habeler and Reinhold Messner sought to break new ground in Alpinism. Minimal technical display, light equipment and fast climbs of famous faces. In 1974, they set a record for the north face of the Eiger. In 1975, they set new standards in high-altitude mountaineering: They were the first to take on an eight-thousander – the Hidden Peak – in Alpine style. It was in fact the first ascent of the north-west face. The culmination came in 1978: Peter Habeler and Reinhold Messner became the first to reach the top of the Everest without bottled oxygen. “We wanted to return mountaineering back to the rewarding encounter between human spirit and human strength and nature," Habeler declared later. He was also successful on the Nanga Prabat, the Cho Oyu and the Kangchendzonga.
Professor Peter Habeler
Since 1973, he has been managing the Ziller Valley Alpine School and in 1993, he founded the "Mount Everest" Ski and Alpine School in Mayrhofen. Peter Habeler has also become known as a court-certified expert for Alpine science. In September 1999, he was given a professorship for his many publications and his long commitment to the mountains and mountain climbing. He is married, has two sons, and lives in Mayrhofen in the Ziller Valley.
