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Climber of the “old school” in a “new age” – Christoph Hainz

Christoph Hainz, born in 1962, is more than just an all-round alpine talent. The sheer range of his extraordinary achievements combined with the consistency with which he carries out these feats underline the outstanding position he has on the international Alpine stage. His specialty: modesty. Reinhold Messner did not even attempt to find some superlative to describe Hainz, noting “merely” that he represented “mountain climbing of a kind that has never been seen.”

Late bloomer at top speed

Christoph Hainz

Christoph Hainz got a whiff of mountain air early on. Born in South Tyrol, he spent his childhood on a farm at 1500 meters. Up there, he sowed his wild oats and “ignored” the surrounding and distant summits for all of 20 years. It took him just eight years following his first “sought-after” encounter to decide on a career change. The first successes on the mountain came soon after.
What began with the first climb of the “Waldepfeiler” (V+VII-) on the Mur de Pisciadu/ Sella, grew into a testimony to Christoph Hainz’s passion for the mountain: Over 2000 routes, including rock-face climbing until difficulty X- (“Symphonie de liberté,” the Eiger north face, 2000), mixed climbs until M10+ (“Misch ich fix“, Höhlenstein Valley, 2005), and over 20 solo ascents grades VI and VII.
In addition to joining up with Hans Kammerlander for the first climb of the direct north pillar of the Shivling (VII, WI 4) in India, Hainz also scored solo successes. In 1994, he performed the fastest solo climb of the Fitz Roy in Patagonia, and in winter 1997, he did the “superdirettissima” of the Grosse Zinne north face alone in just 8 hours. Another spectacular solo feat in 2003: In a mere four-and-a-half hours, Hainz swept over the “Heckmair” route up the north face of the Eiger. There, in 2007, he and Roger Schäli opened up the “Magic Mushroom” route (21 SL, IX).

Against the trend

At a time when everything and everyone is becoming more specialized, Christoph Hainz is consciously doing things differently. This mountain and ski guide, sport climbing teacher and canoeing guide still numbers amongst the world’s best in rock, ice and mixed climbing. He lives with his wife and two children in Reischach near Bruneck, South Tyrol, Italy.

Autonome Region Trentino-Südtirol
Autonome Provinz Bozen Südtirol
Brixen / Bressanone
Alpenverein Südtirol
Club Alpino Italiano